Mastering the Italian Style of Tailoring

Posted on Posted in Dressing Guide, Dressing Habbits, Groom's Guide, Spring/Summer, Wedding Suits

Italian suits are very different from their British counterparts. Italians were not comfortable in the stiff and structured British cut. A garment that is way too rooted in traditions to leave very little room to accommodate more stylish trends. A suit that is too heavy to be worn comfortably in warmer weather. Instead they sought out sleek silhouettes and light materials.

 

At Zebel we specialise in creating custom tailoring in a multitude of styles and fits. For one of our exquisite, Italian suits book your free appointment at info@zebel.co.uk or give us a call on 01392758742. Will thousands of Italian fabrics such as Successori Reda and Drago Lanificio di Biella to choose from and levels of customisation equivalent to Savile Row.

 

Italian tailoring is bold and daring in both design and fit. The classics; grey and navy can also been seen along side vibrant reds and blues, more earthy tones, and stronger patterns such as large checks and stripes. In Italian fashion it is also much more common (and more acceptable if you closely follow British style traditions)  for a the jacket and trousers to mismatch. This gives the wearer a much more casual style and also allows much more creativity when it comes to putting together an outfit. You’ll also find contrasting waistcoats to be much more common, even in a business setting. The trousers have little to no break and can also be cropped. This cropping works well with loafers and other more casual shoes. The cuff of the trousers will be much narrower giving the legs of the trousers a much slimmer look. Again, the trousers don’t necessarily have to match the jacket and can even contrast it to make a bold statement.

 

 

As you can see the Italian fit is much more relaxed/casual from a classic British fit. The sides are much more tapered to give a tighter silhouette and the shoulders are far from the padded structures you’ll find on Savile Row in London. The shoulder style is a huge part of the look and can vary from region to region. For example, Milanese shoulders are closer to British shoulder in structure but with a reduction in the padding.

But a jacket cut in Naples will have almost no structure and a lighter canvas. The shoulder joins in such a way that it is more likened to a shirt shoulder than a traditional suit shoulder. These shoulders are by far the most casual and probably the only jackets you can get away with wearing jeans with.

Another variation is the Roman shoulder or more commonly known, rope shoulder. Although the rope shoulder screams Italy it is widely believed to have originated in France. The added roping the shoulder adds width and structure without sacrificing the comfort of little to no padding.

 

 

 

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